13 – Cutting in the Bottom
Day 13 started by cutting in the bottom using one of my
favorite tools – the parting tool.
I figured I had about ½” in depth left to cut and
a 6” bowl bottom so I started from the center of the bowl
and worked my way out to the planned diameter, which actually went
After that I started using the roughing gouge to remove enough material
to blend in the bottom with the sides.
I had to switch tools because the angle was getting to severe for the
gouge to Butch’s more user friendly gouge.
The goal tonight is to get enough wood removed that I can start using
the calipers where the bowl walls begin angling
in towards the bottom of the bowl, which I will keep at until my hands
Day 14 – Hand sanding.
The bowl inside has been cut to diameter. I opted to go with
a hand sander rather than using a tool on the bowl
I am using a combination of hand sanding and sanding using the
The object here is to get it smooth enough to fill in
bug holes, cracks etc.
Day 14 – 3D Sander
This nifty little tool is
the Sears Craftsman 3D sander.
– Filling in Bug Holes.
The dark spots in the
bowl are areas that are filled with sawdust and super glue.
This needs to set for a day before continuing on.
Another thing you can do is fill the holes with turquoise or other
material to give it more character.
Since this is a salad bowl there is not much sense in doing that.
I squirted one shot of super glue into the bug holes and on the spalted
areas on the exterior to seal
the wood but other than that left them as is.
The tung oil should seal everything else. It is a fairly heavy
penetrating oil and must be applied in thin coats over time.
Applying too much at one time results in waxy looking bubbles which is
excess tung oil drying on the bowl surface.
– Outside Finished with and without Tung oil
The outside of the bowl
is finished. The first coat of tung oil has been
This is the permanent finish and
– Tung oil
Tung oil comes from the Chinese
Tung Tree and has kind of a nutty smell. In its pure form it
is food safe.
The marbles are for displacing
oil used from
The oil polymerizes (hardens)
when exposed to air so any
air in the bottle will start the hardening process.
Day 18 – Set up to part
bowl from Sacrificial Block
Three coats of tung oil
later, the bowl is again mounted on the lathe and the parting tool is
used to cut the bowl
from the sacrificial block.
A saw is used finish the job.
Day 18 – Part bowl
from Sacrificial Block
Day 18 – Sand the
bottom and finish
Now all that needs to be done is sand down the bowl bottom, sign the
piece and apply a coat of tung oil.
I use the little 3D Sander to smooth out the bowl bottom, which takes
an hour or so.
Notice the lighter colored ring in the center of the bowl.
where the dowel was glued into the drilled out hole for extra
I hope I got the math right because this in theory
should sand out.
Day 18 – Sanded, Signed
Signed and Finished!
math was right. The dowel sanded out and it all
looks pretty good.
bowl needs to dry for another day and then I
tung oil needs a week or
two to harden now.
The Salad Bowl Set
Looks like it
will make a pretty nice set. The large bowl on the right was
my first try.
After that I changed my bowl turning strategy.